Bulgaria

I must admit that when it comes to Bulgaria - well, that's all kind of a grey area. Wrestlers, right? Or maybe weight lifters? I don't know much about the country, so when we were scheduled to put into port at Nessebur I didn't really have any expectations. And a half a day visit isn't enough to learn about an entire country. Considering the hardships of the Soviet years it seems like the country is trying hard to make their way. 

This trip has also been an opportunity to learn about orthodox Christianity - different styles, new to us saints, different practices. 

For instance, this fellow:

A thousand years ago his picture was painted on the wall of a tiny church in Bulgaria and he's been dealing with those lions ever since.

Most of the churches in Nessebur are ruins, but work is being done to preserve what's left to showcase the distinctive local style:

Part two of our tour was a wine tasting, which was entertaining. After it was all over we decided that the wine was competent, but not special. All French varietals, and really wouldn't you rather drink a good version? Then again, at €6 per bottle....

Our guide's enthusiasm for the wines she was sharing with us was worth the price of admission, though!

By the Bosphorus

Every so often we see a magazine called 'Cornucopia', which is all about Istanbul. A recent issue had a long article about a new naval museum that holds a collection of the barges of the sultans.  The pictures were spectacular and we decided to go there. 

Barge - that doesn't sound very interesting, I know. The word used in the museum was 'caique'. They are an open, rowed boat used to move the sultan, members of the imperial household and high ranking officials through the waters around Istanbul. The collection now resides in a purpose built museum which is lovely in and of itself. 

Extensive restoration (and pounds of gold leaf) have returned the boats to their former glory. 

In addition to the boat collection there was a special exhibit of works from the naval woodcarving shops, which displayed name plates and other decorative pieces from both sail and steam military vessels. No mistaking who you were dealing with when you saw these guys coming.....

It was a lovely museum, all signage in English - very interesting. Once we left the museum the next item of business was lunch. We waded into the streets of the neighbourhood. Since we were right on the Bosporus fish was the thing. Again, we were out of the tourist area and we could look about without being half dragged into restaurants by over enthusiastic waiters. 

September is hamsi season - that's anchovies to you and me. 

From this guy to the place next store:

Anchovies and beer!

Up the Golden Horn

Before Istanbul, there was Constantinople. Not a lot of the Byzantine city is left. The Hagia Sofia is one example - first a church, then a mosque, then a museum. The bell tower became a minaret and many of the interior decorations were altered or covered over.  Restoration work has returned many of the mosaics to their former glory and they are beautiful. The scale of the building means the mosaics are huge - and quite far away. There is another Byzantine church in Istanbul, however.  The Chora church once stood outside the city walls ( in the boondocks, the information sign so helpfully said...). It too became a mosque, then a museum, and it has beautiful mosaics. The difference is the scale:

The church is quite small and it is off the main tourist track so the feeling is intimate and uncrowded. 

To get to the Chora church we took a ferry up the Golden Horn from downtown. The last stop was at Eyrup. There is an important mosque there that is a major site for pilgrimage, so we went to take a look. The mosque itself is small and modestly decorated. 

There was a fellow there who insisted on taking everyone's picture. 

While the mosque is small the attraction is a tomb in the courtyard, which is subject to much veneration. The plaza outside is huge and they clearly handle big crowds of worshippers. 

Sometimes, being in a country where we know neither then language nor the culture means we run across things that really have us scratching our heads. From the mosque to the church was a long complicated uphill walk along the ancient city walls. There was a zig when there should have been a zag and we were on a street beside a really big mosque. The street was filled with vintage (1950 & early 60's) cars and contemporary motorcycles. And in the cars and on the motorcycles were women in wedding gowns. Some were driving, most were passengers. There were two bands. A truck full of photographers. These were not demure real brides. They seemed more like brides via the Las Vegas strip. Hooker brides. Some of the women seemed quite well known - people were rushing up to take selfies with them. 

And we couldn't find anyone who would admit to speaking English. Eventually the parade headed of down the street, snarling traffic, leaving us scratching our heads. Eventually a guy managed to say that it was a festival of weddings. Okay, then. We asked the concierge at the hotel and he had no idea, couldn't find it on the 'net.  Just a Saturday afternoon happening.